Fun things to do in and around Sydney

July 13, 2018 by Andrew Duncan

If you have few days to spend in and around Sydney I have a few suggestions of some of my favourite things to do. There is a slight bias towards walking and food, two of my great loves! I hope you find inspiration and joy from your visit!

-Shannan

Botanic Gardens and the Opera House

Start by finding your way to St. James train station. This station, located in Hyde Park is one of the original underground stations on the Sydney rail network and has retained some of it's vintage charm.

Once out of the station head in the direction of the park, towards the large Archibald Fountain. This is a personal of mine for it's vomiting turtle fountains. From here, head towards the cathedral and the road diagonally towards signs for ‘The Domain' and the NSW Art Gallery (worth a visit if inclined). This sets you on the path for a nice walk through the Botanical Gardens. The gardens are well signposted. I would highly recommend the garden’s gift shop which has some really excellent Aussie made wares. I don’t recommend the café in the gardens, the bin chickens (ibis) are super aggressive and will attack you if they sense fear/food is present! If you don’t know what a bin chicken is please watch this video:

If you are looking for a great photo opportunity, head towards Mrs Macquarie’s chair. It’s a bit of a walk but This will afford you great views of the opera house and the bridge in the same shot. After you’re finished, follow signs for the opera house and circular quay.

At the opera house you can walk all the way around it and go inside. There are tours you can book too if you want to see more of the insides. If it’s lunch time and you’re feeling cashed up Bennelong restaurant is excellent and highly recommended, its housed inside the cute little baby opera house in front of the big one. The 8 textured chocolate cake is the same as from Quay restaurant across the water. It is life changing.

The Rocks

The rocks is a pretty touristy part of town but that doesn’t really detract from it’s charm. It is the site of some of the earliest European settlement in Sydney and has some interesting history. I recommend just wandering among the alleys and laneways, walking up random stair cases and through archways…you never know what you’ll find! Here is a pretty good self guided tour suggestion. If you are visiting on a Saturday or a Sunday the Rocks markets will be on, with stalls scattered around the place. Word of warning though; sturdy shoes are best in the Rocks because the surfaces are a bit uneven and slippery at times and there are lots of inclines and steps.

Susannah Place museum is a really interesting way to see early European life in the area. They run tours on the hour and you can buy tickets from the museum. The YHA across the road is also pretty amazing. It is the site of an archaeological dig and can be walked though underneath.

The Sydney observatory. For a bit of science fun and for a great view, walk up to the Sydney observatory. They have tours which are excellent (some amazing science education at work by post grads!) You can also watch the daily ball drop at 1pm!

Food in the Rocks

You can’t visit Sydney and not have a Messina icecream! There is a shop opposite the circular quay train station (other side of the construction site for the light rail!). Flavours I recommend are: Salted caramel and white chocolate, Chocolate fondant and Pistachio praline.

If you’re looking for a café, La Renaissance has good coffee and superb cakes with a little courtyard out the back to sit where you’ll likely be visited by their resident rainbow lorikeets, careful the cheeky things pinch your sugar packets!

Arguably the best Devonshire tea in Sydney can be had at the Tea Cosy. It has an Irish theme and all teas come with their own unique tea cosy. The best jam is the rhubarb, strawberry and vanilla one, hands down!

If the markets are on, the Gozleme stall is hard to beat. The stall owners are super friendly. My favourite is the beef, spinach and feta version!

The Fortunes of War is a classic pub (the oldest in Sydney too!) with surprising good food. They have a gallery of all of the ships which were in the first fleet, and the eagle eyed among you will notice a similarity of the names of these ships and our little ferries. My favourite is Sirius.

The Bridge and Kirribilli

If you keep walking up the hill you will find the bridge stairs which will take you up to bridge level. I recommend walking at least to the first pylon where there is a look out and a fantastic museum which is right up the top of the pylon. You get a great view and a really detailed history of the bridge. If you keep walking across the bridge you will end up in Kirribilli (where I live!) which is a nice place to stroll around, this is where the official Sydney residences are for the Prime Minter and Governor General. From here you can also walk back down to the harbour and along the boardwalk past or through Luna park. If you keep walking along the board walk you can find Wendy’s secret garden which is a little slice of quiet paradise and a lovely place for a picnic or a rest with lots of hidden nooks and crannies to explore.

Newtown and the Marrickville markets

Turkish coffee and ice cream at Hakiki. The sudden downpour was a good excuse for a second helping!

The Marrickville markets are held on Sundays. The 428 bus leaves from Newtown train stations and stops right outside the markets. They are a really chill, mainly organic food market with a few second hand and craft stalls. Overall it has a great bohemian vibe. There are lots of great lunch options to enjoy, though I really recommend the Gozleme from the team of Turkish ladies. There is also an amazing second hand ‘junk’ shed on site (very large shed!) that is a sight to behold, I love rummaging through it to find treasures. When you take the bus back to Newtown make sure you get off a bit before the station and head to Hakiki Turkish ice cream shop…some say Messina is the best icecream in Sydney but my money is on these guys, especially their Turkish delight flavour!

Newtown itself has lots of great little shops and places to explore with plenty of classic Aussie pubs.

Watsons Bay and The Gap

Take the F4 ferry to Watsons bay from either Pyrmont, Barangaroo, Milson Point or Circular Quay. It is arguably the best ferry trip to take as it takes in most of the middle harbour but doesn’t have the crowds of the Manly ferry. Stay on the ferry until the last stop at Watsons bay. This is the site of the famous Doyle’s seafood restaurant, if you are on a budget you can get the same fish and chips for a lot cheaper at their takeaway on the wharf! From the wharf, make your way through the park up to the gap. The gap is a high cliff face looking over the pacific ocean. If you are super lucky you my just see some humpback whales breaching! There is a nice walk along the coastline here that loops back to Watsons bay. From the gap you can either head back to the wharf and take the ferry back to town or jump on the 380 bus to Bondi beach! If you still have energy at Bondi, I recommend the famous Bondi-Coogee coast walk, even the shorter walk to Bronte is worth doing!

The Blue Mountains

Public transport maxes out at $2.60 all day on Sunday so it’s a great day to go far and wide on the extensive opal network.

The Blue mountains about 2-2.5 hours by train. The two towns to head for are Katoomba and Leura, both have train stations.

The day trip I like best has me on the 8.30 or 9am train out of central (hint: aim for one with 8 carriages and walk toward front of train…it can get a bit busy on Sundays) you will arrive at Katoomba just before lunch. So you could find food in Katoomba (Old City Bank Brasserie is good or the Pomegranate cafe) there but I’d suggest sourcing some food in Sydney and aim for a picnic in the bush instead. Once you’re in Katoomba you can get the bus 686 to Echo Point (where the actual views and nature is). Your opal card will get you on the bus.

Echo point is where you can look over the amazing Jamison valley and see the three sisters. From echo point you can either head back to Katoomba and take the train to Leura or, and I really recommend this, walk to Leura via the Leura cascades. It is such a nice walk. About 4km with some ups and downs but not really difficult. Details including a map and walking guide can be found here

Once you get to the Leura cascades you’ll walk up to Leura village along the road. Leura is super cute and worth spending your time in (Katoomba not so much). After your long walk you’ve earned a reward and I recommend a hot chocolate a Cafe Madeleine (187A Leura Mall), and a trip to Josophan’s chocolates

If you like tea pots and Devonshire then tea, Bygone Beautys with it’s hilariously random teapot museum is also a fun stop. After you’ve explored the town you can head back to Sydney from the Leura train station.
If you do plan to go to the Blue Mountains visit, please pack warm clothes it is actually pretty cold up there and it can be a little windy.

Badshahi mosque, Lahore — Badshahi mosque, Lahore

Lahore, Pakistan

May 05, 2015 by Andrew Duncan in Places

We took the well-built highway that links Lahore to Islamabad and hit the local traffic before we'd left the off-ramp. We had been forewarned about what to expect but it doesn't really pay it justice.

Heading out later that night. This time the stress was outsourced to a local driver.

The traffic contained a mess of cars, happy to push their way into anything resembling a gap or, as true stock market tycoons, anything that might become a gap in the future. Motorcycles flowed around these cars like a liquid. The colourful shalwar kameez clothing of the women riding sidesaddle on the back seat billowing behind them like a sail or drifting perilously close to the back wheel. Truck-arted tuk tuks added to the melange, spewing their two-stroke fumes into the air and providing a sport to us, as we looked out the window wide eyed and bewildered, looking for the most populated ones. I was too excited watching to get any photos that do this first experience justice.

The next few days were similarly filled with sensory overload. We inhaled the smell of spices in the old city with new friends, crossed the warm red stone of the Badshahi Mosque with our bare feet and made a young girls day by starting a waterfall at the Shalimar gardens.

Badshahi Mosque

There are restaurants that line the Badshahi Mosque. Our first view of this impressive building was at night while sampling delightful Desi food at Andaaz restaurant. Rising three stories above the street we were treated to a spectacular view of the mosque while trying the Dal Makhani (recommended) and other punjabi foods. The next day we returned and went inside the mosque to get a full appreciation of the immensity of the complex.

The building is constructed with a keen appreciation of sound projection. Standing where the Imam would preach from projects your voice across the room, sounding like it is coming from above. In other sections we would try talking and could hear our own voices reflected back to us, sounding deep and mighty, a disconcerting experience.

The stone courtyard was pleasantly warm to our bare feet on this mild spring day. Temperatures average over 35C five months of the year in Lahore, we asked how people can handle it during the summer. Hessian mats are rolled out along the walkway. Water is poured on these throughout the day to keep them cool enough to walk over.

Looking out one of the windows we could see a dozen cricket matches being played in the field below, fielders overlapping. The cricket fever is intense here, even down to competing with the cows for the grassy median strip in the middle of busy roads. The mosque must provide one hell of a backdrop.

Shalimar Gardens

The Shalimar Gardens date back to Mughal times, constructed in 1641. The fountains are powered by an elaborate hydraulic network that fills the lake reservoirs and can be arranged to cascade down the levels of the garden. We were asked if, for a small fee, we would like to see these magnificent fountains in action. It's hard to say no. A small trickle of water emerges as they start to open the valves, we eagerly await the show. As the man returns we realise this is as fountainy as it gets and express disappointment at the trickle. 'They are gravity fed fountains from 400 years ago' we are informed, 'what did you expect?'. At least the nearby kids enjoyed playing with the waterfall. I suppose there was no television back then.

Feeling a confidence boost after discovering Marsala flavoured potato chips we decided to try some street food. Gol gappe are hollow fried spheres that you tap to break the top and load up with fillings such as tart tamarind juice, yoghurt, chickpea and mint. I ate tentatively expecting the tamarind water in particular to do us in. It was nice but I would have appreciated it more if I had been able to get past the feeling that I was dooming myself to food poisoning. As it turned out we were fine for the next few days at least so that meal was safe. Turns out we would all have a turn with food poisoning to one degree or another but we survived (though that outcome was, at times, doubted).

Lahore Fort

Entering via the elephant gate we rose up the broad, shallow steps, past bullet holes installed in the wall during the British Raj, to our first view from the battlements. Our guide tells us stories of the Queen and her requests to her husband, the Mughal ruler, for her entertainment.

First she wants him to bring the stars of the sky inside to her. In response he has a room of curved mirrors built. When you light a candle in the middle of the room, or in our case an iPhone torch, the mirrors reflect thousands of specks of light like stars.

Having conquered the night sky she wishes to walk on the clouds themselves. Consulting his creative architects he refloors the courtyard with marble tiles that look like clouds. Under the tiles runs water to cool them to the touch. The water was scented with jasmine or rose to give the entire courtyard an pleasant feel.

I felt perhaps her brother was the architect and she was trying to keep him employed. Shan pointed out she was probably not allowed out of the fort very often, a long trek for a Queen back then was over to the Shalimar gardens so perhaps the constant renovations kept her entertained.

The old city

Our Lahorian friends took us out to breakfast in the old city. It's not where they would have had breakfast, in fact they'd rather be asleep like the rest of the city but we'd sounded keen and they'd obliged. With the knowledge that anyone 'authentic' wouldn't be having breakfast before 12 we proceeded with our quest for authentic Pakistani breakfast. I head upstairs to small restaurant. Out the window, perilously close to some creative power line design, I watched as the rest of our entourage crossed the relatively quiet street.

Food began arriving from downstairs. Puri, a fried bread, accompanied by chick pea curry and halwa, a sweet made of semolina, clarified butter (ghee), sugar and spices. Very tasty. I was less tempted by the goats feet curry with the cartilage and bone flavouring the dish, though the sauce was very good. It soaked well into the puri of which I ate far too much!

After breakfast we walked towards one of the gates of the wall that used to surround the city. Holding hands we crossed the traffic on a busy street, dodging the motorcycles and entering a zen state of Frogger. I found that quite fun.

All too soon our time in Lahore was up. After three days, countless tasty snacks and meals, miles of walking the dusty streets and the incredible border crossing ceremony we packed our bags and began the journey back to Islamabad. I really enjoyed Lahore. It is a city with vibrancy and activity, plenty of character, friendly people and amazing architecture and history.

Wagah border crossing

April 08, 2015 by Andrew Duncan in Places, Holiday

And we're back!

Today we are at the Pakistan-India border to watch the closing ceremony. Until 1999 the Wagah border was the only crossing between the two countries [1]. I remember first seeing this in a documentary with Michael Palin many years ago and was thrilled to finally get the chance to see it for myself.

Starting from Lahore we are driven to the border. Driving in Pakistan is not for the meek and we are glad to have someone doing it for us. As we approach the border we join a steadily thickening stream of cars, tuktuks, bikes and people coming to watch the spectacle. Eventually we reach as far as our car is allowed and continue the last kilometer or so on foot. Security is heavy, there was a terrorist attack here last year and no one wants a repeat.

We are ushered to our seats, as foreigners we are accorded prime position near the centre and are not separated. The stands around us are divided into men and women, the latter being incredibly colourful, the former being incredibly loud.

As the anticipation grows, the crowd starts getting warmed up, it sounds similar to a football game with a Pakistani twist. During the brief lulls similar excitement can be heard just across the border in India. The soldiers convey purpose and surprising speed with their well orchestrated movement. The Pakistani officer throws his hands out with thumbs downturned while we looks at the Indian border, but it turns out he's just righting his hat or putting his hands behind his back each time. No insult intended of course. The Indian soldiers seem less obvious with their taunts but we get a good view of their faces as they face the Pakistani side and stare us all down.

The Wagah Border closing ceremony, between Pakistan and India, from the Pakistani side of the border.

The ceremony concludes when the flags have been lowered in unison and a brisk, awkward handshake so fast I missed it on camera! We hang back for photos with the guards who are thrilled to have their pictures taken with us and walk back to our car, back to the thick of the traffic of Lahore. A fantastic afternoon outing.

Home Sweet Home

July 10, 2014 by Andrew Duncan in Holiday

Back in Perth, Western Australia. After nine months of travelling we have seen much of the US, Peru, Bolivia, Argentina, Uruguay, Chile, Galapagos (Ecuador), Cuba, Cayman Islands and Canada.

It's been an unforgettable experience for us and I hope you have enjoyed our updates. More importantly I hope it doesn't take too long for us to find a way to put up a few new adventures. From everything we have seen and experienced I have realised how many amazing landscapes and wonderful people are out there. The planet is bigger now than when I left and I know there is no way to see everything but I'll happily die trying!

How on earth did we get so much stuff? I need a holiday!

'Travel is the only thing you can buy that makes you richer.'

Sydney

July 09, 2014 by Andrew Duncan in Places

We are back in the land of vegemite, BBQs, beaches, kangaroos and meat pies.

After 9 months overseas it's both great to be back amongst the familiar accent, smells and food but our feelings are tempered as its the end of what has been a great adventure. We are looking forward to catching up with family and friends, many of whom we didn't contact as often as we should have while travelling but it's also a time to start a new chapter in our lives. A chapter that is exciting and full of potential but very different from waking up each morning, packing up all our possessions and hiking over a mountain pass surrounded by glaciers.

Sydney is home to an outpost of Duncans I haven't seen in many years. My cousins have pretty much doubled their age since I last saw them and it's great to be able to spend a few days with them to see what they've been up to and to introduce Shannan. I enjoy being able to go with them for a weekend morning stroll along the beach in the bright warm sunshine as we search for coffee.

Do you recognise this popular Australian landmark?

We arrived in time for the last night of Vivid Sydney. A surreal event that turned the Sydney Opera House into a video screen and had interesting art installations around Circular Quay and much of the CBD area. Also, giant glowing rabbits.

I also had the chance to meet up with a friend here and we enjoyed touring the harbour on the ferry and raiding the Messina ice-cream parlour, a must-visit if you are in Sydney.